Technics SL1210 Turntable - Quick Fixes

Comments · 379

• WI

  @williamtaylor5193 · 3 years ago (edited)

  So here is a tip that I wanted to share. From day one of owning my SL1210GR, I had what I thought was an anti-skate and/or tracking force issue. Every time the tonearm got to the inner grooves, I started to get more pops/clicks, and even skips/repeats. It was driving me nuts. I also had difficulty with cueing. The tonearm was always drifting slightly toward the armrest when I raised it or lowered it with the cue lever. I assumed this was an anti-skate issue, and adjusted it numerous times, adding, subtracting, yet the problem persisted.<br><br>After doing a lot of reading online, someone mentioned that the wires that run from the cartridge, through the tonearm, and down into the plinth can occasionally be tangled or tight, particularly straight out of the box. This can create resistance in the tonearm as it travels. Given this possibility, I decided to (gently) exercise the tonearm horizontally, through its full range of travel, repeatedly, &nbsp;from the armrest to the spindle, back and forth. I also wiggled it up and down at times while I did this (keep the stylus guard on while performing this exercise to avoid rubbing your stylus on the platter!!). <br><br>The first indication this had worked was that the cue lever operation was sorted-- it&apos;s now straight up and down, as it should be- the tonearm gradually moves through the runout area, and comes to a stop, and most importantly, the sound and tracking no longer deteriorate as the tonearm approaches the end of a side of vinyl. I am months into things since I performed this exercise, and have had no more issues, so the fix is real. I hope this helps someone.

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• CM

  @cmonkey63 · 4 years ago

  I used to fix things electrical, every time I see that whiff of smoke from the solder I can still smell it.

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• DJ

  @djhollowpoint · 2 weeks ago

  Owned a pair of SL-1200M3Ds for ~20 years and I&apos;ve been too afraid to crack one open and look inside. &nbsp;Thanks for doing the hard work for me!

• MR

  @MrPsychodeejay · 4 years ago

  I have a pair of SL-1200s Sitting on my desk in front of me! Nearly 30 years old and still working like new! :D

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• NI

  @nickbenke3306 · 3 years ago

  There are now LED lamps for the pop up lights! But beware - you have to remove the resistor flanking the switch, or all hell breaks loose! I&apos;m loving your vids. Bravo!

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• FU

  @fuzzyplays2321 · 3 years ago

  why is this so relaxing

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• DU

  @duduafalcao · 2 years ago

  From a Khruangbin album to your fascinating skills, I fucking love you Mark!

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• TR

  @trufetes · 2 months ago

  Hello Mark, many thanks for this clear tutorial. It helped me to fix my turnable, and now I&apos;m enjoying a superb stereo quality again, thanks to you ! Some comments I learned in the process, for the ones trying to do it<br><br>• When re-soldering the cables, make sure you buy one as you&apos;re showing in <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=634">10:34</a>. Mine were delivered straight cut and I spend the majority of the time peeling them off. <br>• Since the pads are quite close each other, and for what I mentioned above, the soldering operation was not trivial. I had to iterate the three different lengths of bare wire, so better if it comes peeled<br>• I got somewhat stuck with the part in <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=509">8:29</a> and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=709">11:49</a>. The trick to disassemble is to open to the sides the fenders in the snaps. Also, some cables won&apos;t fit in -mine didn&apos;t-. If you&apos;re a perfectionist take this into account when buying your cable<br>• The wires after the PCA going to the tonearm are for some reason, ridiculously thin, so I&apos;m not sure when having the resistors in series if it&apos;s worth purchasing golden connectors or thick wires<br>• Some sellers provide the three cables (L, R, GND) in a bunch. Quite convenient but you need to check the spacing in your amplifier<br>• There is second <s>also quite sturdy cover</s> required to service the hinges<br><br><br>Also, I leave a chapter guide, feel free to copy paste in your description so viewers can scroll to a specific chapter:<br><br><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU">0:00</a> Intro<br><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=14">0:14</a> Diagnostics (cue arm, connections, speed control, speed selector, pilot light)<br><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=143">2:23</a> disassembly (headshell, flip over, feet, screws, back sturdy cover)<br><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=237">3:57</a> Speed controller PCA fix<br><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=471">7:51</a> Output lead de-solder and re solder<br><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=540">9:00</a> Platter removal and motor<br><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=628">10:28</a> Re-wiring cables<br><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=768">12:48</a> Reassemble cover<br><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=856">14:16</a> RIAA<br><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=876">14:36</a> Reassemble cover and platter<br><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=908">15:08</a> Test with equipment<br><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=957">15:57</a> Rest with record <br><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=980">16:20</a> Lifter mechanism repair<br><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=1045">17:25</a> Rest with record<br><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fF2usvWI6HU&amp;t=1064">17:44</a> Closure

• DO

  @DougPowhida · 1 year ago

  These earlier videos are great, but you have really upped your production level, camera work, and editing over the past two years. I&apos;m glad you still have these videos up though so we can see baby Mark at work.

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• JU

  @juanvicentedelrio716 · 1 year ago

  I have fixed and serviced some hundred of those trough the years, and a few more things are, to me, good to to check. Many of them have had the pitch pot replaced but nobody takes the time to adjust the center resistive point to what Technics quotes, this is, with the fader locked in the middle position you have to adjust the trimmer VR302 to read between the two 5 and 6 wires a 2k7 value. Also, after this adjustment is made, you have to connect it all and, on the main board, keeping the pitch in the central position, adjust VR301 to a value between TP27 and GND of 262.08 Khz. I also give some lubricant to the plater axis, which is also the motor axis. Nice to see you working I really love the way you do the things and how you care about the details, few does it.

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• LR

  @LRiper · 1 year ago

  Whatever you say you say it with a smile &amp; that’s the best part of it

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• JO

  @johnsmith2076 · 1 year ago

  No two ways about it. I have to watch this amazing channel from the very beginning.😎

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