Emil Abrahamsson // NEW Mind-Blowing Finger Strength Study with Dr Keith Baar
16K views · Nov 25, 2024 · Entertainment
Comments · 16
@thestruggleclimbingshow · 1 year ago · pinned
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@chaozzah · 1 year ago
Can I just say I love the name 'Abrahang' that has clearly snuck into his vocabulary.
8
@Jonathan-Woods · 1 year ago
What I’m interested in is how this may have affects outside of rock climbing. What kind of “no hang protocol” could be used for very basic exercises like the bench press that revolutionizing ways we look at sports
6
@m3.h0w · 1 year ago
It would make sense to link to the paper or at least provide the name so that people can actually read it :)
3
@luke3491 · 1 year ago
they should do a test where someone does board climbing 2-3x a week see if they get stronger in fingers
3
@grayhamner · 1 year ago (edited)
I think the main issue I could see with the “just climb” group, is what are they climbing? You even show a clip of someone climbing, but they’re on a slopey, pinch climb. Most commercial gyms aren’t setting a ton of crazy crimpy, finger intensive climbs anymore. I think you’d need someone who’s “just climbing” on 20mm or smaller holds mainly.<br><br>I also am not sure that 2-5% is enough difference to show effect, and couldn’t be attributed to other factors from each group<br><br>Also, very little climbing looks like hanging from a 20mm flat edge. Was there any data showing this increase transferred to climbing?
11
@mep3954 · 1 year ago
Thank you ! Is the "no hang" protocol standardized yet ? Is it available somewhere ? Thanks again for the great content
1
@blauerklaus7 · 1 year ago
Ok, so I could combine max hangs with no-hangs. I haven't done max hangs so far but rather 10-second repeater sets. Where would repeaters fit in with this, and which system do they use in your view?
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