A better way to add threads to your 3D prints

Comments · 908

• MA

  @MadeWithLayers · 8 months ago (edited) · pinned

  CNC Kitchen heat-set inserts <a href="https://cnckitchen.store/">https://cnckitchen.store/</a> (use code tom5 for 5% off!)<br>Self-tapping inserts on Amazon <a href="https://go.toms3d.org/selfsert">https://go.toms3d.org/selfsert</a><br><br>Product links are affiliate links - I may earn a commission on qualifying purchases (at no extra cost to you)

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• LA

  @lachlanbrent-f3z · 1 year ago

  There is also the option of creating a pocket on the bottom face of the part into which a hex nut is tightly inserted. I&apos;ve found this type of connection to be the easiest and strongest.

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• KA

  @karambadodox · 1 year ago

  1 - Push heat set inserts 90% of the way in using your soldering iron<br>2 - Use a something with a flat face of metal or glass or stone to push them the rest of the way in<br>3 - Enjoy having your heat-set inserts installed straight, every time.

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• LI

  @lifeteen2 · 1 year ago

  I love how the 3D printing world is rediscovering all this knowledge from machining on it&apos;s own. This is called form threading, there are special drill charts (or equations, if you&apos;re doing specialized stuff) that tell you what size to make the hole so there&apos;s just the right amount of material so the material flows from the valleys of the threads and fill in the crests.<br><br>One tip for any direct threading into the plastic: make a 30 degree chamfer on the opening of the hole, this matches the 30 degree chamfer and thread form on the bolt so it self aligns better.

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• ME

  @merrillalbury8214 · 1 year ago

  I use my slicer to insert a stop at the top of the square nut cavity, insert the nut, and then continue the print.

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• MH

  @mhdm · 1 year ago

  You missed a great option: print the threads (yes, even small threads like M3) then follow with a *form tap*, also called thread forming / fluteless taps! These taps don&apos;t cut but rather squeeze and deform the material into the correct thread shape. There&apos;s no chips to clean, threads are stronger because locally compressing the plastic makes it stronger (even stronger than your self-forming threads option because of the closer fit) and the form tapping itself is painless with a hand drill and just a drop of oil. Plastic won&apos;t tear out because the printed thread is already close to dimension (and the form taps themselves are stronger than cutting taps so they&apos;re less likely to break for tiny threads). The form taps on Ali for a few bucks each are plenty good.

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• AR

  @arturslab7102 · 1 year ago (edited)

  Self forming threads: instead of designing negative with those bumps, you can just create a hexagonal hole. If dimensioned right, threads will cut into the side walls and corners will give space for expansion. Especially easy when designing in Openscad. And instead of three bumps you get six surfaces for thread to cut into

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• MA

  @majormojo · 1 year ago

  A technique that I use with various types of printed holes is to use slicer modifiers to create a cylinder of solid infill around the hole. That way, the screw has more than just a couple of wall layers to bite into. Also, if it does become stripped somehow, there&apos;s still the option of tapping new threads for an oversized fastener.

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• SE

  @sek295 · 1 year ago

  My key takeaway is the &quot;model once and subtract&quot; approach. Never thought about it espacialy for those komplex geometries through multiple parts. That will speed up my process and I really question myself why I never thought about that before. Thank you very much!

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• VI

  @vincentbarkley9121 · 1 year ago

  You can form strong threads in a straight hole by heating the screw before insertion. The material will flow to form screw threads.

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• MO

  @modelracecar · 1 year ago

  <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgEEtk85rAY&amp;t=309">05:09</a> - Self forming threads...a GREAT idea

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• BA

  @Bapate-rh9be · 1 year ago (edited)

  CNC kitchen out here making plans to make a certain youtuber vanish this weekend. Jokes aside: Heat set inserts have much better longevity for any application that requires assembly &amp; Disassembly + if you get M2.5 screws with M2.5 Heat set and M3 Heat sets you can design screw connections that do not creep away because the base hole of M3 is 2.5.

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