Well, it turns out you CAN use screws in 3D Prints! But...
240K views · Mar 7, 2026 · Science & Technology
Comments · 826
@Srjames094 · 6 months ago (edited)
These screws are used in the automotive industry for a reason. Trick: To avoid cross-threading, start turning it in the opposite direction until you feel the drop, and only then start screwing it in.
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@Wol333 · 6 months ago
All screws are self tapping with a little elbow grease
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@tima9790 · 6 months ago
the main thing to remember when threading directly into plastic, and removing/reinserting multipler times, is to align the screw thread with the cut thread. just turn the screw backwards and you will feel/hear a little click as it rides over the start of the thread. this is where you start screwing the screw in, so you don't start cutting new threads.
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@KilianGosewisch · 6 months ago
you mean m3 screws are just simply 3mm and not 7/27th of abe lincolns left pinky toenail + 1 barleycorn? crazy
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@zeusde86 · 6 months ago
One approach was left out here, that I've first seen beeing used in the openflexure-project: for very small holes (everything blow M3/3mm) you have the same problem with self-tapping-screws as normally with machine-screws: not enough bite into the material. the openflexure-project solved this very elegantly by designing the holes as triangles instead of just...holes. this enables the hole to be much smaller, the dimensions are more accurate, the material has somewhere to go and where the screw bites, it does so with more grip than on a round wall. i found this approach very ingenious.
82
@ry4nolson · 6 months ago
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8F4G-OyXHJs&t=1043">17:23</a> I see what you did there. I see what you did there.
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@gg48gg · 6 months ago
Rolled vs cut threads — quick clarification<br><br>Rolled vs cut describes how the screw was made.<br>Rolled threads are pressed into the metal (stronger). Cut threads are machined.<br><br>This is different from thread-forming vs thread-cutting, which describes how a tapping screw makes threads in the material.<br><br>So:<br>Rolled/cut = manufacturing.<br>Forming/cutting = how it works in the hole.
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@JohnDoe-fk6id · 6 months ago
I always knew trilobular screws were better, from working with some injection molded part development, but I didn't know they were THAT much better. Thanks for the documentation!
71
@WaffleStaffel · 6 months ago (edited)
<i>"The hole is equally as important as the screw"</i><br>Oh god. The endless double entendres. My brain is overheating.
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@scaredyfish · 6 months ago
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8F4G-OyXHJs&t=10">0:10</a> I'm secret option 3 - I've used screws in 3D prints without an issue. Threaded inserts are not readily available around here, so I've gotten used to making it work. Tolerances can be a pain, but once settings are dialed in, it's been fine.
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@psedog · 6 months ago
I watched a video from Slant3D that talked about putting slats in the hole. I did this by making splines. This makes is so that the screw will cut the threads into the hole, and this has been a game changer. No longer do I have to worry about getting it perfect, and the metal screws will create the threads perfectly for that screw. No more fuss. The strength is also noteworthy. A single thread of a M8 screw in PLA is darn near impossible to pull rip out by hand.
29
@TheHaroldOfMary · 6 months ago
At <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8F4G-OyXHJs&t=464">7:44</a><br>Not to be a nitpick, but I work as a calibration technician I would highly recommend that you use three slow clicks to measure with the vernier micrometer. The ratchet is there for a ser force measurement. Iykyk. Hopefully that information will prove to be a little bit helpful for you :)<br><br>Great video by the way, I enjoyed it a lot! Very informational and very helpful, thank you!
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