6 Reasons to use a Rotary Polisher in 2026 | Pete Details

Comments · 99

• F1

  @f18a · 1 month ago

  This is the best "rotary polisher" vs "DA polisher" video I've seen -- and I've seen a lot of them. Well done.

  10

• JO

  @Joel-we2gg · 1 month ago

  You've saved me hundreds of dollars and much frustration. THANK YOU. 😊

  2

• AJ

  @AJ56 · 1 month ago

  The smoothness and precision alone make it a no brainer for me. Plus the wide range of backing plates I get access to.

  1

• JO

  @Joel-we2gg · 1 month ago

  Thank you so much. I'm old school, I was almost convinced that DA buffers where superior. Just like my ol rotary 😊

  1

• GU

  @gurto287 · 1 month ago

  This is a great video, good work 🙌🏻

  1

• CO

  @Coppercanic · 3 weeks ago (edited)

  Well balanced video. Learned something and gave a DIYer mad hope.

• CL

  @cleancarchris · 1 month ago

  Thank you for this. Top notch video. I made the move and ordered my first rotary.

• ER

  @erniearambula3525 · 1 month ago

  I totally agree I watched rotary videos till I felt confident to try i started on my friends broken down SUV with paint that's halfway trashed started on low speed basically to learn how the rotary moves how it responds to my arm movements once I became more familiar I bumped the speed from 2 to 3 then 3 to 4 the results I was getting was unbelievable

  2

• IT

  @Itsbuiltbyraul · 1 month ago

  Great video. I’m new to detailing and I’m learning on how to use the DA and rotary. I like both

  1

• JO

  @joevanseeters2873 · 2 weeks ago

  While DA polishers are definitely safer to use, I still enjoy using the rotary polisher, even with my smaller polishers like my Flex PXE-80, probably the polisher I use the most of any of the six different ones that I own.  I first started detailing when rotary polishers were the king, back in 1980.  There were a few DA polishers around back then, but not many.  The one I clearly remember, and a machine that I actually liked very much, even though it was big and bulky, was the Cyclo original polishers, which I think had been around since the 1940's in the same two head, hand application simulation of twin 4 inch heads that rotated counter rotational of each head to try and "simulate" hand polishing (at least that is what the advertisement lead you to believe...LOL), but it was a very well built, rugged machine that did a great job.  3M rotary is what we had, plus we used all the 3M chemicals and polishing pads, which were very pricey, but they worked very well and were some of the best products in the industry for professional detailing back then.  We got our supplies from a local body shop repair supplies store that had an isle or two dedicated to detailing products and tools from not only 3M, but also from the Meguiars Professional Line, Ardex, and Malco.  Most of the applicators, brushes, and tools were from S.M. Arnold back then, a company that still distributes those type of tools today.  With just a few simple "never exceed" type of rules, the rotary polishers are a very safe and effective way of polishing a vehicle's paintwork.  In fact, I think they are far more effective than a DA polisher and in the hands of an experienced user, can cut down on polishing time considerably.  Of course pads and chemicals have an impact on how well rotary polishers work.  I have always been a fan of using cleaner waxes, due to their safe and effective method of cleaning paint, without using harsh abrasives that are typically used in the heavier cut compounds.  The cleaner waxes or "pre-wax cleansers" as they are sometimes billed, are the safest way to both cleanse your paint, and bring out the gloss, along with also being able to remove tar deposits, old waxes, unseen contamination on the paint, and they generally just clean up the paint very well, and can be used by any skill level.  I do think that the dual action polishers are the best option for any person who doesn't have a lot of experience with polishing.  They are a very safe way to bring out the gloss on a paint while still be very safe to use, even by a DIY'er at home just wanting to keep their cars in good condition for the life of their cars.  I would say that the forced rotation polishers are some of the best machines for striking a balance between the safely of the dual action polisher, with the quick correcting ability of a good rotary polisher.  One of the best forced rotation machines is the Makita PO5000C, a forced rotation polisher with a slightly shorter throw than the more well known Flex 3401.  The Makita forced rotation polisher has an 8mm throw, but you can easily switch from a free spinning dual action, then flipping a switch on the side of the unit, turning it into a forced rotation polisher, and visa versa.  I love that you can just flip the switch on the fly starting out in forced rotation mode for extra punch when polishing, then flipping the switch, going into free spinning dual action for the finishing step of the polish, all in the same polishing set.  It saves time, runs smoother than the Makita, and is an overall nicer polisher and polishing experience.  I have both the Flex 3401 and the Makita, and I have always preferred using the Makita which has less vibration than the 3401 and the finish is better as well in my opinion.  They also now make a battery version of the Makita PO5000C which is great because you then no longer have the cumbersome cord getting into the way.   Rotary polishers are a great way to polish vehicles.  You just need to take a few precautions when polishing with a rotary.  1) Use slow speeds!  Always.  Never crank the polisher up to high RPM's or you most definitely will "burn" through to the color coat or primer down underneath, something you can only repair by having the panel resprayed most likely, and a very expensive mistake.  2) Use less aggressive pad choices, always starting with the least aggressive pads, then working up from there if needed to a higher cut pad.  That method is essential when using a rotary unless you are very experienced and know from many polishing sessions before than, through years of experience polishing professionally, to be able to know through use of the polisher and pad combo's which combination is the best combo for that paint type without doing test a test spot or panel.  It is still always good practice to conduct a test spot to see which combination of polishing chemical, and pad choice you need to use to get the most gloss and clarity to the paint. 3) Stay away from edges,  and the compound curves in the body panels so commonly found on todays automobiles.  4), Keep the polisher moving at all time, working in slow methodical movements, but never allowing the polisher to stay in one place for more than a second or two or again, you risk burn through, which will require a re-spray of the panel if you do burn through to clear coat.  4) Use waffle type polishing pads to help with dispersing some of the heat that is generated by the pad spinning on a painted panel.  Heat can cause "blooming" of the paint, which is when the paintwork gets too hot, then the hardened paint softens slightly, which can cause changes in the appearance of the paint when it hardens again when it cools.  You definitely do not want to bloom the paint accidentally by having the rotary polisher on too fast of an RPM speed, usually anything above a 3 setting for a rotary polisher.  Polishing paint is not hard, contrary to what many professionals and enthusiasts would lead you to believe on social media platforms.  Anyone can polish their paintwork effectively with the correct polisher, polishing pads, and the right chemical choices.  I've taught someone who has never polished a vehicle ever how to polish using a dual action polisher in just an hour and they have gotten great results ever since.  There are thousands of great combinations these days and an endless supply of detailing tools and products.  Just use common sense and you should get decent results polishing your paintwork.  Another great way to polish paint effectively and with little risk, is using glaze type of products.  Autoglym Super Resin Polish is one of the best all in one products to use at home by any DIY'er just looking to maintain their vehicle(s) at home.  Super Resin Polish has little cut, but great cleansing ability for the paint, glosses up the paintwork nicely, especially on paint that is in good condition, and can be easily topped with a carnauba paste wax like Fusso Coat from Soft99, or a Collinite paste wax like Super Double Coat.  Glazes are some of the most easy to use of the available products that polish paint using fillers rather than cutting down the clear coat so much, you risk burn through on subsequent polishing sessions.  With Super Resin Polish or something like Poorboys World Black Hole glaze, you can essentially polish as much as you wanted, with little risk of shaving off too much clear coat, but having enough solvent content that they are effective in cleaning away a lot of the surface contamination by chemical ingredients rather than having to purchase a lot of different decontamination products.  Back in 1980 when I started, we used cleaner wax and pre-wax cleansers quite a bit as they were more widely used by car owners back then.  They have since fallen out of favor these days with the rise of the "ceramic" products.  It seems that just about every detailing product there is these days had some sort of "ceramic" component and the world "ceramic" is slapped on just about every product these days from paint protection products, to polishes, waxes, and spray sealants.  We've gotten away from the basics due to excessive marketing and YouTube influencers.  You can still maintain your vehicle(s) at home, using minimal products, and get exceptional looking results.  And by doing your own polishing and protecting of your paintwork, you can save a ton of money.  If you buy a bottle of glaze,  cleaner wax or sealant like Super Resin Polish, and then finish using a long term sealant paste wax like Fusso Coat, which can last six months to a full year if the car is normally garaged, then you won't break your bank so to speak, but will still have very effective products and your car will look great.  Where these products make the least sense to use is on any vehicle that has a lot of micro marring, swirls and scratches in the paint.  Anything more than light swirls and scratches and a little road contaminants, will require the use of more effective chemicals such as cutting compounds and paint polishes,  The perfect point to start using a polisher like the Makita PO5000Cor it's battery powered cousin, along with Super Resin Polish topped with Fusso Coat, is when the car is fairly new and has not been contaminated through inappropriate washing techniques, tools, and chemicals.   You may need to cut and polish normally the first time you polish a new car or one that you have purchased on the used car market, after which subsequent polishing sessions can be sufficently accomplished using a simple rotary polisher at lower speeds or any dual action polisher, which can be used in the higher speed range without too much fear of the burn through risk of a rotary polisher.    😀

  2

• DE

  @Deal-Tailing · 1 month ago

  Awesome video, great information and demonstrations 👏👏👏<br>Thank you Pete 👍😎

  1

• WH

  @whalen530 · 1 month ago

  I’ve always loved the rotary its super versatile it’s all we had at the &nbsp;time when I &nbsp;detailed for a dealership back in the day &nbsp;I still enjoy the rotary and detail for friends and family from time to time but I will say my favorite polisher that I reach for is my Milwaukee 15mm