WTF Is Akigalawood And Why Is It In Every Fragrance Now?
7.8K views · Sep 28, 2026 · People & Blogs
Comments · 165
@Yaa10101 · 2 days ago (edited)
The purpose for IFRA is to replace all natural non patented chemical substances with their patented counterparts, and to lobby these replacing rules into law.
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@dantheman2907 · 2 days ago
It's wild that clove oil was regulated in perfume for being a carcinogen while it's still sold in chemists everywhere for you to just put straight in your mouth when you have a toothache, at levels far exceeding anything you'd see in perfume.<br><br>I watched a video on captive molecules a year or two ago and they spoke specifically about this phenomenon where the companies create a new molecule, put it in fragrances that get popular because they have something new/interesting about their smell, then brands have to go through that company to get that molecule which often means using the same perfumer, which then means it drives that trend more until everything starts to get a bit samey, then they drop a new molecule and it starts all over again.<br><br>Then there's also the later trend that lags well behind - the end of the patent. That's when those molecules become available to everyone without having to go through a specific company/perfumer and the molecules may get a renewed surge of interest, which apparently happened with ISO E Super. That's also when the companies tend to release the new and improved version of the molecule.
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@ismail00352 · 2 days ago
More of this type of videos please.
22
@Alienneila · 1 day ago
At one point, ifra tried to ban lavender as carcinogenic, but because its so popular, snd theres so much available data on it, there was enough public backlash for them to backtrack.
6
@spinsterlong1368 · 2 days ago
Maybe i'm biased because I am an occasional akigalawood enjoyer but the flip side of this argument is that if fragrance houses don't own the rights to their formulas and anyone with a gcms can reverse engineer them of course they are going to try to innovate something that isn't available to the masses. And so they should be! It also opens up more avenues for perfumers to explore and experiment. I don't really see what makes akigalawood any different from vanillin or ISO E super, which were surely also parented for a time.
11
@whiteshenanigans · 2 days ago
What a refreshing video, cheers mate great job....
6
@BRUXXUS · 2 days ago
An an indie perfumer, it's most frustrating that it's captive. Can't even buy the stuff to see what it smells like in isolation. Same marketing that made everyone thing Ambroxan is a loud, harsh, dry woody amber smell. Most people saying "Ambroxan bomb" have no idea what the stuff actually smells like.
2
@darthioan · 1 day ago
What an amazing racket these guys got going for them.
@DavidJonesbwfc · 1 day ago
Amazing what you can find when you go down the proverbial rabbit hole 🕳️ <br>That old rabbit hole holds many secrets.<br>Cheers Raffi.👊🏻
@milosevicbojan07 · 2 days ago
Akigalawood should be named "Bishotin". <br>But, i must sey, i reeeely like fragrances with it,Boise Imperial,Myake Sel d'Issey,Ganymede...and Amouage Purpose
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@MillioniarePenguin · 2 days ago
I just want to throw this out there, a lot of captives are absolutely nothing special, and have easily attainable structural replacements that you can use for a similar enough, but not exact kind of effect.<br>I only realized this once I had begun perfuming myself and was forced to find a way around this issue.<br><br>Since you said you wondered what other compounds are captive, I'll list some for you:<br>Fleurenal<br>Firsantal<br>Mysoral<br>Paradisone<br>Mahonial<br>Rosyfolia<br>Pomarose<br>Petalia<br>Mystikal
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@dyshaun08 · 1 day ago
Here we go. Quentin.
3
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