This Is Why Your Wildlife Photos Look Noisy, Muddy, and Weak!!

Comments · 20

• KI

  @kishoredangi · 3 months ago

  Very well explained....👌🏻

  1

• JO

  @joebrennan1272 · 3 months ago

  Really good video, so much common sense spoken here!!!

  3

• DA

  @dangold2595 · 3 weeks ago

  Excellent video ,  all info is spot on , I am a wildlife shooter and this info was such a refresher for me . I shoot in manual and this tutorial , explains settings very clearly . Thank you ,

  1

• IV

  @IvonSparks-xq1wq · 9 days ago

  I came across this while photographing hummingbirds in Southern California.  The birds try to stick in the shadows or quickly fly out of range.  I need 1/4000 to 1/6000 to freeze their tiny wing details, but reducing noise became a chore.  Off camera flash may have helped, but I wouldn’t want to spook or endanger the subject.  I shot with an Sony A6700, min F3.2.  ISO was variable with sunlight.

  1

• CA

  @catherinegrimes2308 · 3 months ago

  I never have problems with my exposures with wildlife photography with my Fujifilm X-S20 camera. I have manual aperture that is normally set to wide open, manual shutter speed that is around 1/1600s or more to match the subject and/or the brightness on the day and auto-ISO. LIVE VIEW HIGHLIGHT ALERT is always on and this indicates if anything is overexposed such as in the case of a swan. I use burst mode and save the images as RAW + JPG. If the highlight alert triggers by an overexposed white bird or an animal is silhouetted and looks dark, I will turn the exposure compensation dial and that is all that I do. With modern AI noise reduction tools, noise is the easiest thing to fix in post processing. Correcting for motion blur or out of focus subjects is a different matter. I always use the viewfinder and never use a histogram,

  2

• WE

  @wellingtoncrescent2480 · 3 months ago

  An excellent overview that successfully demolishes a host of insidious shibboleths. Kudos.

  1

• SO

  @SophiePirard-lc4zq · 3 months ago

  Good reminder!

  1

• PA

  @paulvalerio3887 · 3 months ago

  Every Pro-Sumer body today surpasses every flagship body from 5+ years ago. Fanboys create comparison videos specifically between these devices and title them “Why I’m Switching”…<br>And of course, here comes the contractual loaner and “Link in the description below” to make it all worth their while.<br>Now that I’m on fire!🔥😂🔥<br>Can we talk about the hundreds of Hasselblad X2D’s and OM Systems OM1 m2 units that were shipped out!?

  1

• TH

  @TheWildlifeGallery388 · 3 months ago

  for me shooting a mode that may require exposure compensation is laughable to me - IF, I must decide that the scene, species and lighting dictate I need it - I&apos;m making the very same decision as someone that is shooting full manual - I set my camera up so that each click is a half stop, I can literally change my exposure of any 3 settings while looking through the view finder quicker than I can if I have to decide how much +/- compensation I need for what I have in front of me and then input that into the camera. For me regardless of the scene or brightness level the subject is always the most important part of the image and I find that spot metering just works way better than the others for doing that - of course backing it all up with the histogram, light meter and what I see in the viewfinder in real-time and quickly deciding how I want this image to look is needed prior to hitting the shutter button.

  2

• WA

  @waynetuckson7909 · 3 months ago

  What a great video. In 30 minutes you succinctly covered the topic, without hyperbole, and showed examples that illustrated your points. I gained some helpful insights and look forward to putting them into practice. Thank you.

  2

• TE

  @tedbrown7908 · 3 months ago

  Because you don&apos;t have an 18,000 dollar lens!