5 Simple Septic System Upgrades Every Homeowner Should Know

Comments · 16

• MA

  @Matori-fc7gf · 5 months ago

  This looks way easier than it actually is - septic work usually ends up being messier and more complicated than expected, which is where American Residential Services comes in for sewer and drain services when things go sideways.

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• DR

  @Dr-wheel-barrow-opperator · 2 days ago

  I have more knowledge about a septic system and the components of the system after watching this. Thank you for sharing your hard earned knowledge.

• GY

  @gyffjogofl7676 · 4 days ago

  Awesome video.  Liked and subscribed

• OL

  @OliverMaintenance · 7 months ago

  Great video. Also, you have great water pressure!

• RO

  @rokguitarstar · 6 months ago (edited)

  My septic tank has'nt been inspected in 28 years. I'm having it inspected and pumped. there is no clean out so I'm going to add one. Also no risers, a complete pain in the a@@. trying to find the lids! Good advice!

• PE

  @petemoss100 · 7 months ago

  Great info. I like to fix things before they fail. My Father has a garbage disposal and has no fails in 30 years. Is the disposal a myth? I was told septic and garbage disposals are a no no.

• KI

  @KinseyJarvis · 7 months ago

  like cars....people ony care when they arent working

• CR

  @craigwillson5974 · 1 hour ago (edited)

  I don't know what state you're in or where you got your training, but you've given some incorrect and inaccurate information in this video. As a Licensed Septic Professional with almost 25 years of experience, I can assure you, that Septic Tanks are different based on the manufacturer and the state you're in, because tank size requirements are different. For example, in my state of New Hampshire, a minimum of 1000 gallons is required for up to 3 bedrooms, but frequently 1250 gallon tanks are installed for 3 or 4 bedroom houses, and 1500 gallon tanks for 4 or 5 bedroom houses. Regardless of size, all of the Concrete Septic Tanks have 3 Covers and typically they're 22 inch Round Concrete Covers if it's a modern pre-cast tank. In addition, most tank manufacturers don't cast the Inlet or Outlet Baffle into the tanks anymore, because the installer builds the PVC Sanitary Tee Baffles on-site and attaches them to the Inlet Pipe and Outlet Pipe using PVC Primer and PVC Glue with a Stainless Steel Screw as required by state code. In other words, no Septic System is operating without Baffles unless the tank is more than 30 years old and the old Concrete Baffles deteriorated and fell off. Not to mention, Effluent Filters impede airflow and limit oxygen transfer. Plus, they clog and are an added maintenance hassle most homeowners don't want or need. In addition, depending on the type of leachfield or drainfield, the manufacturers installation specifications do not allow for Effluent Filters to be installed in the Outlet Baffle. By the way, we have lots of Pump-up Systems in my state, which means the Disposal Area or Leaching Area is at a higher elevation than the Septic Tank. This means a Pumping Station and an Effluent Pump are required to pump the wastewater to the Leachfield/Drainfield and that necessitates the need for a Candy Cane or Gooseneck Vent. So, not every system relies on gravity because Pump-up Systems are extremely common here in the New England States.