New, Improved and Upgraded Tailstock! How to manufacture a brand new quill for the lathe!

Comments · 34

• PE

  @PeckhamHall · 1 year ago

  It will be intesting to see it drill something and if it doesn't over cut the size of the hole then you know you did a good job. I liked watching.

  2

• RA

  @RalfyCustoms · 1 year ago

  Cracking job mate, great upgrade, cutting that thread was absolutely brilliant, thanks for sharing, have a great one 👍

• ST

  @stovepipe666 · 1 year ago

  well done that turned out nice

• RU

  @Rustinox · 1 year ago

  That sure is a nice upgrade.

• PH

  @philhermetic · 1 year ago

  superb work!!<br>Phil

• RU

  @RustyInventions-wz6ir · 1 year ago

  Very nice work mister

• KE

  @kentuckytrapper780 · 1 year ago

  Excellent job, new subscriber..

• JO

  @johnjohnson764 · 1 year ago

  Hi &nbsp; This is very opportune ! &nbsp; &nbsp; My behemoth of an old lathe is over 48 inches between centres, runs 14 inch chucks and will swing some huge size in the gap. &nbsp;However, it has a spindly 3MT in the tailstock barrel and I know that I have to get on and do this to be able to use my 4MT tooling. &nbsp; &nbsp;Your 1.75 inch OD on your barrel is a useful size for me to aim at as I have spent some time agonising over a suitable size for strength that will still go in the tailstock casting.<br>So, thanks, very good, may well force me into action. &nbsp;Are you going to engrave the barrel - and what is the fine old lathe you are running there? &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;JJ, &nbsp;N.Yorks

  1

• MF

  @mfs5493 · 1 year ago

  Why is &quot;rust&quot; the prevalent colour in your workshop?

  1

• BO

  @bostedtap · 1 year ago

  Trying a suitable drill, perfect &nbsp;😊.<br>Very nicely done, great set-up and procedure, I can only &nbsp;assume that limiting the Morse Taper size reduces both axial and radial load on the tailstock?<br>Excellent demonstration on spark analysis 👌. <br>If I may suggest an electric dehumidifier for the shop, they work fantastic at reducing moisture, and with dryer air, feels warmer, I run mine October to March/April, with out it, humidity easily reaches 95%, a target of 60 to 65% is satisfactory for shop work. <br>Look for a Dessicant Dehumidifier, &nbsp;8 to 10 Litre capacity, &nbsp;I have a MEACO DDL8, currently £181 on offer direct, but plenty of others.<br>Thanks for sharing, &nbsp;and may I wish you and your family a Safe 2025.

• CA

  @camillosteuss · 1 year ago

  Well, the quill should not induce any real wear on the bore... Quite like how machine axis movement should not induce wear... Now, that may hold true in a hydraulic bearing system where the lubricant is infinitely supplied at high pressure with filtering, which offers a contactless bearing support, but even the normal machines in operation should be sufficiently lubed up to keep the film of lubricant between any sliding and actuating surfaces as to keep them from wearing - which of course does not work 100%, even with the most diligent pampering and care-taking, but you get the point - the quill could be solid ground carbide at 70HRC and it still should not induce wear as it ``should never see dry contact`` if the machine is well taken care of... Which leads me to consider pneumatic bearing tailstock quills... Just X-groove a ``uni-directional thread`` gulley as a chamber and pipe the tailstock to say 10 bar oil-mist with 2 micron diametral clearance, or rather 1 micron radial clearance and voila, you have the perfect setup for a solid carbide quill that has air-purge as the ``seal`` from chips, grit and what not(only chips should be found at a lathe, but i won`t fault you for a speck of dust or two)... It would require a custom anti-rotation key setup at the middle of the bore with a keyslot that never leaves the bore, but that is a secondary design parameter in this case... <br><br>Also, if you want to prevent a major source of machine wear - derust and descale your stock before machining... Plop it in citric acid and wash it down with soap after and dry with a bit of WD compound before chucking or doing any work with it... And oil that bloody machine, she looks more dried up than the mummies of ancient Egypt... Jeeze louise, you wound me, brother, that is no way to treat a machine... If you have to, get some grease and slather it on the ``bright`` surfaces and wipe them down when you go to use the machines... The absolutely cheapest expired grease will do... And if you want, you can use chainsaw oil for the rest... It`s cheap as dirt and it is essentially 110w oil which clings to everything like shit to sheets... I have a 5l tub of it just for when i go to scrapyard in case i encounter a nice machine that i plan on buying but obviously can`t pick it up on the spot, or even for machines that i won`t pick up but i want to give a chance for someone to pick them up without them becoming a corral reef of rust... Shit, the scrapyard owner actually paid me for doing it to the last few machines as he actually got to sell them as they were oiled and wrapped in painter`s furniture sheeting - courtesy of my love of great machinery... The last one was a Traub mini auto-lathe that some dude snagged with glee, as it was a really nice - well maintained machine... Plus, the ways are round rods so changing those out is easy work if you have a good shop(cyl. grinder perchance?)... <br><br>Either way, i`ll cut the rant here... Don`t get me wrong, i`m not trying to shit down your collar, i know you live in the Moistystan, but it is a sore sight... I would strongly consider insulation for the shop... Literally go out and find a farm supply store that holds greenhouse foil(tarp?) it is thick, absolutely weatherproof for decades and even more so when it is not directly blasted by sun and harsh environmentals full 365 days a year... Get that shit and use large headed nails to secure that shit onto the shed walls, or whatever you have to use to fasten it down... I would go with one long sheet that covers 2 walls and the roof in a single go and 2 smaller sheets for rear and front wall... Overlap the sheets and glue that shit down at the overlap areas and nail it down... It is an expense and quite some work, but if done well, it will cut down the moisture ingress by 88% with ease... So much so that leaving a small kerosene burner with a good supply of lamp fuel will keep the shop dry and warm for weeks with ease... If there is no air-flow, there is no moisture ingress, and where there is no air flow you can keep the temp up with ease... I use a kerosene burner in my greenhouse and that shit keeps it at comfy 6 celsius when it`s -6 outside... And that is a metal frame greenhouse with not the best sealing capacity... A better seal would offer better performance(door and windows don`t seal 100%)... As said - an investment, but a damn cheap one when you put in the foil... After that you can see whether or not you want to double clad the shed in another layer of foil after you add some rock-wool as intermediary layer and maybe finish that with some 2x4(imp. wood standard) structure and drywall to tidy it up... It will make the shed a nicer place to be in and it will keep your ass warmer too, as well as cutting down on machine horrors... <br><br>Ok, now i`ll cut the rant... <br><br>Best regards!<br>Steuss

• ВЛ

  @ВладимирИшков-г6б · 1 year ago

  Good job!<br>But poor lathe- so rusty...