Adam Savage's One Day Builds: Lathe Tailstock Repair!

Comments · 821

• TE

  @tested · 6 years ago (edited) · pinned

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• SR

  @SRFriso94 · 6 years ago (edited)

  <i>Remembers the last time Adam repaired his lathe</i><br><i>Nervous sweating</i>

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• DA

  @davidfitwe · 6 years ago

  Color doesn&apos;t tell you it&apos;s Grade 8, it&apos;s the marks on the head that tell you.

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• DR

  @drfingaz889 · 6 years ago

  Watching Adam slowly go insane over these last 4 months is the most human thing I have ever seen. Thank you sir, for inviting us to your genius.

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• G3

  @g3heathen209 · 6 years ago

  Whoa, the grinder wheel scene was trippy.

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• BR

  @BROON71 · 6 years ago

  Adam&apos;s welder sounds like an air raid siren on steroids..

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• SC

  @ScarredRealist · 6 years ago

  How do I know the video hasn&apos;t had many views yet? There&apos;s only one (other) person saying Adam should have ground the plating off the bolt off before welding!

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• MA

  @matthewhelton1725 · 6 years ago (edited)

  I&apos;ve been using a lathe for 40+ of my 50+ years. Tip: Putting a short spring between the bottom of the tailstock and the retaining shoe will positively separate the locking shoe from the bottom of the bed when the tailstock shoe is released. Regarding alignment the tailstock with the spindle, you don&apos;t really want to use a coaxial indicator (they sag under their own weight). It is better to use a piece of bar stock 12-18&quot; long which has been center drilled at both ends. 1. Place a dead center in the chuck or Spindle Taper (recut the dead center to 30 degrees), and a live center in the tail stock. drive the bar stock with a lathe dog. a. Turn a short length of the bar stock at the headstock end reading cross slide the scale only. b. Turn an identical length (again using the cross slide scale only) at the tailstock end. c. Use a micrometer to measure both diameters: They should be the same. 2. If they are not, you will need to adjust the tailstock. If the tailstock end is smaller than the headstock it will need to moved away from the front apron (X-), if it is larger than the headstock it will need to be moved toward the front of the apron (X+). 3. Repeat a., b. and c. until the diameters measure the same with the Micrometer. There are commercially available test bars which can be used with a test indicator mounted on the lathe carriage which essentially does the same thing. Tailstocks are easily adjustable in the X axis of a lathe, but they also wear in the Y axis (tool height axis): this is because the tailstock rides on the lathe bed and they wear against each other. Detecting this wear is a bit more difficult (and out of the scope of this discussion unless you are rebuilding the whole machine).

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• TR

  @triple151621 · 6 years ago

  @<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fru2G4bGL14&amp;t=1070">17:50</a> Fully expected: &quot;oh yeah, my welder doesn&apos;t work&quot;

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• BO

  @bobs6888 · 6 years ago

  &quot;This last weld is totally overkill&quot;<br><br>Bigger da gob, better da job!

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• MA

  @matwashington2784 · 6 years ago (edited)

  In my best Beavis &amp; Butthead voice &quot;Heheh, he said he had munge on the end of his tail stock, heheh&quot;

  12

• AV

  @avenged8fold1 · 6 years ago (edited)

  Love your videos Adam, but I&apos;d like to point out the color of the bolt has nothing to do with the grade. The gold color in particular is just a yellow zinc anti-corrosion coating. What actually identifies an Imperial grade 8 bolt is the amount of dashes stamped on to the head of the bolt. The dashes will be either every 120 degrees (3 dashes total) or every 60 degrees (6 dashes total). The amount of dashes + two = bolt grade. So 3 lines is a standard grade 5 bolt, and 6 lines is a grade 8 bolt.<br> &nbsp; &nbsp; Metric bolts are a bit different. A number will be stamped on the head, 5.8, 8.8, 10.9 or 12.9. The number before the decimal indicates the bolt grade, the number after the decimal indicates the percentage of its yield force it can endure without permanently deforming. So for example and grade 10.9 bolts can endure 1000N/mm^2 before it yields, and it can withstand 90% of that force without deforming permanently. A grade 8.8 bolt can handle 800N/mm^2 to yield, and 80% of that force with out deforming.

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