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4 yarns I will never use again - honest review

24K views · Nov 25, 2025 · People & Blogs

Comments · 164

  • @groundhog75015 · 10 months ago (edited)

    For the green sweater, try over-dyeing. Be sure to use a dye for bamboo/cotton.

    22

  • @DrGlynnWix · 4 months ago

    I haven't used drops, but I read a comment on another video reviewing yarns where they said that drops rotates between spinning facilities to get the cheapest price at any given point, which means that the quality varies a lot between batches. It could be why some are happy and some aren't.

    6

  • @Sandy-lq9xe · 10 months ago (edited)

    Regarding your green top with the dye lot issue:  Why not duplicate stitch or embroider a design on that lighter colored band?  A floral or geometric design in one or two complementary colors would look very nice and make the light green band look intentional.  And to soften the transition between the two greens, perhaps allow part of the design to spill into the main green, above and below the band. Just an idea.  :-)

    52

  • @dianesexton2697 · 9 months ago

    Thank you for the rant, it’s very useful for a beginner like me and yes I would like to hear about your best yarns.

    8

  • @claudiaengels6068 · 9 months ago

    Until today I had no experience with Drops and when I saw your video I had just ordered Kid Silk in off white to hold it with Fabel for a sweater - and I thought "oh my god, what have I done!" 😱😆 Today it arrived and I already finished the gauge. I had black cotton pants on while doing it and nothing happened, no shedding at all. Than I rubbed the finished gauge over my pants (before washing it) - again no shedding. I already love it, it's so soft and cosy.

    16

  • @waterballoonfighter · 10 months ago

    There is a huuuuge difference in quality in mohair yarns. The Knitting For Olive mohair doesn’t shed at all, and it stays soft for for years 😍 For me, the Filcolana Tilia is scratchy and it pills quickly. Cheap mohair is (in my experience) a waste of money - it’s better to knit without, as it’ll turn a lovely sweater into a scratchy mess 😅 Isager Silk Mohair is another amazing yarn, super high quality and worth every penny!

    26

  • @patriciazander2072 · 9 months ago

    Wow, thank you for this. I really now think it is so important to test yarn, not only to establish the guage, but also for how it will wear and pilling.

    3

  • @witchlobster · 9 months ago

    Drops kid Silk is one of my absolute favorite yarns! I can wear it directly on the skin æ. But it might be right that it sheds, changing over time. It is still very durable. I don't mind!

    14

  • @spunstricken9065 · 9 months ago (edited)

    The cotton cashmere top could be worn as a vest over a white blouse.  It is very beautiful.  It needs to be worn. That might make it wearable. I also was disappointed by Rico 90/10 Cotton/Cash yarn.  I bought it to knit a vintage style collar with a turtleneck.  It isn’t unwearable, but I notice that I am wearing it when I first put it on. After a while, I don’t notice it.

    7

  • @franziskani · 10 months ago

    Hi, your knits are beautifully executed, compliment ! Regarding the geen summer shirt. If you have good yarn, you can do *knit surgery*. Let&apos;s assume you knitted bottom up, the last row you want to remove, (one that is further up, in other words the one that you knitted later) you make a snip and start weaving out the row. you will see the way the yarn goes - pay attention, you will recreate such a row with a tapestry needle later. After reknitting the section. <br><br>Now the stitches below the row you remove (below meaning when you consider knitting direction) will be live stitches. No need to secure those - &nbsp;you will unravel the lighter coloured yarn, until you arrive at the normal yarn. Then your reknit with good yarn. <br>The stitches above the row which you remove will not unravel (that is impossible) but they crawl a bit into the fabric. You knitted with 2,5 mm so that might be the case. When you have removed the whole row or round the pices are completely detachesd<br><br>In normal instructions it is always advised to insert a thinner needle above and one below and then snip away the yarn in between (meaning you lose that yarn - which would matter if that is all you have to work with). That is not necessary, you do not need to secure the stitches below (you unravel them anyway). and not always you need to secure the stitches above (larger gauge smooth yarn) you can fetch them out of the fabric when you join the pieces with a sewn row / round. <br>Work a swatch with thinner comparable yarn make a few rows in another colour, that stand for the bad yarn and try it out. snipping the thread at the right spot is the most important thing ;)<br><br>If I have side seam I make the snip a few stitches away, then i weave out a few stitches and have a loose end that is long enough to sew it later (weaving in the ends). then I weave out remaining rest of the row (or in your case maybe round.). <br><br>You <i>can</i> cut out the row if you see what you are doing, still going stitch by stitch, but it is faster work than weaving out &nbsp;(weave out a few stitches to get a feel for how you will sew the joining row / round). <br><br>And of yourse you can train on a swatch. <br><br>If you have no good yarn left ... Maybe it can be shorter ?<br>Also If you work another pattern, you often get away with using another dye lot. Another structure reflects the light differently. The more 3 D the better That can save a project if you need to buy more yarn, you can make the ribbing with another dye lot (even another yarn if the colour is close) and it will not be noticeable. Another good reason to work a provisory cast on and make neckband or waist ribbing later.<br><br>So if your wrong yarn is the only thing you have got - try moss stitch on a swatch. Likely you will lose 1 row / round but that is O.K. <br>Or you can buy another skein, that will also be another dye lot, but not as different as the one you have. <br><br>Fruity Knitting has an episode with Lucy Neatby where she shows a very clever method of joining (not necessary for stockinette, but if you have a pattern or stranded colourwork and want to recrerate a row that looks exacetey like the knit it gets complicated).<br><br>Another tip. Try to make your sewn stitches the same gauge as your knit. And make sure that row is stockinette, everything else will be complicated.

    10

  • @cathieclove3101 · 9 months ago

    your points are valid. thanks for sharing!

    3

  • @bonniebunting6415 · 9 months ago

    You do beautiful work…

    5

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