DIY High Speed 3D Printer (CoreXY From Scratch)

Comments · 1.5K

• TE

  @TechBuilder · 2 years ago (edited) · pinned

  I'm Back! :D Some of the cruddy components used were intentional. I just wanted to bring life to some of my old discarded 3D printing components. Holding a square with shorts, the machine is not designed to be a precision build, it was literally just a frugal project for the thrill of doing so. I'll update you all when I migrate to Klipper. Hopefully input shaping would make an impact on the next test prints.

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• JS

  @jsmxwll · 2 years ago

  the old saying i was taught as a kid learning to weld, "a grinder and paint make me the welder i ain't" i still use a lotta grinder and paint lol

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• TE

  @TechieNI · 2 years ago

  I'll be honest and say this is one of the most interesting builds videos I have ever watched. Proper use of what you have instead of buying all new fancy things. Excellent work buddy.

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• MU

  @MustyBucket · 2 years ago

  This reminds me so much of the starting days of 3d printing, when there were no kits or tools specific for 3d printers, so you had to go around the hardware shop to find what you needed and use old pc power supplies as power source....<br>And in the end if you printed a cube that looked more or less like a cube it was such a success

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• JA

  @janKitelen · 2 years ago

  I clicked on this thinking it would be click bait. &nbsp;But no, it&apos;s an excellent build that you&apos;ve put together. &nbsp;It would be nice one day to build my own printer.

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• ED

  @EdcrfQazwsx · 10 months ago (edited)

  <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yuAN5AzEWCg&amp;t=304">5:04</a> one set of &quot;thank you, thank you, thank you&quot; to make sure its rigid🥀

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• CB

  @Cbegnaud · 2 years ago

  The best explanation of a scratch build i have ever seen.

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• MA

  @maikewalzetto · 2 years ago

  Wherever you graduated from, your professors did a wonderful job at imparting problem solving skills. Your speedrun build is spot on!

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• DA

  @davidboop3550 · 2 years ago

  Oh man, all that welding and stuff that can fall on your feet and you&apos;re wearing sandals. You are a warrior

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• SL

  @slartibartfass5729 · 2 years ago

  Great architecture, build, budget, filming, editing and story telling. Just the righr amount of everything. Either you are a natural or you&apos;ve out a ton of brain, sweat, budget and rime into this. &nbsp; Totally impressed!

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• SK

  @skaltura · 2 years ago

  Welding; Some tips here from a automotive fabbricobbler:<br><br>Get shielding gas and throw that core flux garbage in the bin.<br><br>Tap weld first each corner, i&apos;d fabricate this by building the top and bottom squares first, just a spot weld on each corner, cross measure, machinist square to check it&apos;s square too, and you should be able to get within 0.1mm relatively easily with just tape measure -- errors show exponentially when cross referencing.<br><br>Add more spot welds, allow that corner to cool while spot welding the opposite, and go cross hatch opposites, regularly rechecking it remains square. REMEMBER; Smaller the issue, bigger the hammer! So if you are off by say 0.25mm you&apos;ll need a big hammer. Fortunately, small single handled steel mallets are only like 5$<br>Remember to well all 4 sides fully for maximal strength.<br><br>Cooling allow the stresses to give up, and as you add spot welds, it gets harder and harder to get off square, but more internal stresses will build if you go too fast.<br><br>After the 2 squares are done, then just the uprights, same process but this time after first or second spot welds on each corner i would probably add on top a 25kg or 2 sacks as weight to force it to be in place and allow me to weld it faster together. Otherwise the same procedure. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast; So without weights and time you can get it better squared.<br><br><b>*NOW ALTERNATIVE METHOD*</b><br>Print huge stiff corner brackets on 45 degree angle. Adjustable, no welding, no heat shrinkage / thermal expansion / thermal warp issues.<br>See how Slant3D has made their Mason printers.<br>Tho much less stiff, you need 10x thickness for PLA to be as stiff as steel. So for 1.5mm wall steel RHS, you need 15mm walls, or a minimum of 15mm fully solid plastic to match the stiffness.

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• ST

  @stellavalkyrieyoung · 2 years ago

  Some notes about welding from a professional MIG welder;<br><br>Get comfortable. Don&apos;t be anxious or anything; welding requires a steady hand. Especially on thin steel like you&apos;re doing here. Sit down to weld until you get comfortable enough to stand and weld. <br><br>Get your face closer to the weld, so you can really see what&apos;s happening. Don&apos;t be scared of it. Yes, weld spatter will get on you. Yes, it burns. You get used to it. I usually weld with my face as close to the weld as I can, less than a foot (30 cm) away at most. You need to be able to see the weld puddle flowing to where you want it to go. The puddle will do what it wants and you must simply guide it in the direction you want it to go. <br><br>You need gloves. That will let you get closer to your project and brace yourself for smoother lines. Imagine trying to draw a perfectly smooth, straight line with a pencil on paper without touching the desk, while holding the pencil by the eraser with one hand. This is effectively how you&apos;re welding here. Use your off hand as a brace for your torch hand to pivot on, don&apos;t grab the torch with both hands. I usually rest my elbow or forearm on the bench. Also, what you&apos;re using as a thumb rest is just a hook to hang the torch by. <br><br>Torch height and angle is very important. This is what appears to have caused the excessive spatter and the majority of holes in your welds. Proper height and angle allows for correct heat distribution and wire feed for good penetration, assuming you&apos;re using flux-core wire. If you&apos;re not, then you need gas and height and angle are even more important so the weld puddle stays shielded by the gas. You want to stay between 5-15 degrees from perpendicular, and the wire should stick out around 3/8&quot; (1 cm) from the nozzle. If you&apos;re using flux-core, you should &quot;drag&quot; the torch away from the weld, and double the stick out to 3/4&quot; (2 cm). Also, flux-core wire produces slag that needs to be chipped away with a chipping hammer. <br><br>Very basic settings guide: If it&apos;s just popping and not making a consistent puddle, turn your wire feed speed up. If you&apos;re getting excess spatter with correct torch height and angle, turn your feed speed down. If you&apos;re making a weld that looks like a worm sitting on the surface of the metal, turn your heat up. If you&apos;re burning through too quickly, turn your heat down. <br> <br>Of course, settings are very important. But you also have to match your travel speed to your settings. Too fast and you won&apos;t get good enough penetration. Too slow and you&apos;ll burn a hole right through. You want it to have a consistent &quot;sizzling&quot; sound, and the edges of the weld should be flush with the surrounding material. Also, make sure to match your wire to the type of welding you&apos;re doing. Pay attention to the diameter. You&apos;ll need different torch tips for different wire diameters. Tips and cups are consumables, and will need to be replaced often. Gloves and hood glass, too. I go through a glass a day, a pair of gloves a week, and tips every few days. Of course, I&apos;m welding 10 hours a day. <br><br>Finally, welding is a skill. It takes practice. It took me at least 100 hours to feel even somewhat comfortable doing what I&apos;m doing. Practice on anything you can find to weld together. Start with welding on flat, then progress to vertical. Get comfortable; you should feel like you&apos;re sitting at a desk and doodling. Grind your metal before welding it. Weld straight lines on a scrap piece of metal. Practice different weld joints, starting with butt welds, then progress to laps and corners. You&apos;re doing great, for a beginner. My welds looked worse.

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