25 FORGOTTEN 1965 Oil Change Secrets That Made Engines Last 600,000 Miles

Comments · 45

• TH

  @theroyalwhisper1 · 3 months ago

  Back then an oil change was a full medical checkup. Today it's basically: 'Here's your sticker, good luck buddy.😅🔧🚗

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• CH

  @cheeseandpickles98 · 3 months ago

  cross hatching on rod bearings😂😂😂

  12

• MI

  @MikeOchs · 3 months ago

  BEARINGS DON T HAVE  CROSS HATCH THEY ARE SMOOTH

  10

• DA

  @DavidMeredith-j5c · 3 months ago

  Cross hatches on the crank journals would be a huge issue

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• EL

  @ElizabethBustamante-th2hh · 3 months ago

  This is so true I sat on the fender watching and listening with my father as he worked on  his car this has me crying I have a1989 ford f250  I listen smell feel , Im 60 now I still work on my truck thank you

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• DR

  @dr.kennethj.sacchetti2765 · 3 months ago

  These 25 steps are exactly the way I serviced ALL my cars and my family's cars since 1966!  I never had to have an engine rebuilt due to thermal breakdown, or other oil related problem.  I have completed two valve jobs on engines that used leaded fuel, completely on my own, at 19 and 23 years old.  ALL maintenance, as well as oil, filter, lube service was performed  between 500 (new car engine) to no more than 3,000 miles using mineral based motor oil; to no more than 5,000 miles using synthetic blend based motor oil, regardless of OEM Owner's Manuals recommending longer intervals for changing oil, filter, and lubrication.  This is the best, most inexpensive insurance one can do!  I always used 10W-30 top quality mineral based motor oil (Kendall Superb 100, or when it became available Kendall GT-1, Valvoline Racing (in ALL high performance muscle cars built 1968 - 1972), or  Quaker State) on engines built prior to 1984; 5W-30 synthetic blend based motor oil (Kendall GT-1 or Kendall Titanium) on engines built in 1985 and thereafter.  I do not believe that full synthetic based motor oil is a valid choice, like i. e. Mobil 1 suggests be changed every 20,000 miles.  I always changed the oil filter at every oil change with a top quality 2-stage AC Delco, or Purolator oil filter.  Wix and NAPA brand premium oil filters are also excellent quality.  Avoid standard Fram and ALL K & N (made in China) oil filters.  They are nade very cheaply.  As for lubrication, I always used E P Moly (Extra Pressure Molybdinum) grease, NOT OEM recommended lithium grease on ALL Zerk fittings.  Lithium grease is for hinges.  WD-40 for alllock mechsnims.  Again, I never had to replace a steering/front suspension part in any new or used car (except one right outer tie rod on a used 1964 Chevrolet Impala SS convertible at purchase).  I have put more than several hundred thousand miles on some used cars!

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• SU

  @suggesttwo · 3 months ago

  <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGSgeU5s2MA&amp;t=565">9:25</a> before 1970 it was SAE 30 summer SAE 20 winter.

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• DO

  @DonnaTanner-z7r · 3 months ago

  I have several cars with 500k miles. none of them has been to a quick change place. &nbsp;I change oil every 5k miles whether it needs it or not.

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• SU

  @suggesttwo · 3 months ago

  PCV valve. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGSgeU5s2MA&amp;t=900">15:00</a> clean

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• TI

  @timothyschraf236 · 3 months ago

  Been doing that for 72 years haste makes waste 👀❗️👍🇺🇸😊

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• SU

  @suggesttwo · 3 months ago

  <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGSgeU5s2MA&amp;t=1536">25:36</a> In the end the 2 most important things are: do the 500 mile oil change after break in and don&apos;t put the car in gear until there is oil pressure. Know that you are starting the engine dry every morning. Change all fluids and filters ever 3-5 years.

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• DO

  @donaldperrotta8514 · 3 months ago

  Years ago … oil was oil and 10w 40 was king

  2