Your 40% Humidity Isn't Stopping Bud Rot (It Got In on Week 3)

Comments · 39

• DA

  @dantemecula4295 · 2 days ago

  Your best video yet, this is why I’ve never had bud rot. I always run night temps hotter just to be safe.

  2

• RE

  @ReturnoftheAether · 1 day ago

  I had gsc at 82% in the bag and jar after harvest to avoid dryness. Took it out since too humid and dried it a day with a fan in one of those cylinder bags. Then down to 50%. Damn too dry. I was gonna order some bovedas at 62% but somebody said just grab a leaf off another grow and put it in. BOOM!!! 62% exact. I love nature. Gsc is some good shit.....

  2

• SL

  @slimthunder2601 · 1 day ago

  My humidity late flower to chop is 60%. She goes in 60 to dry so makes sense. Now this works for me because im live in a desert environment

  1

• JJ

  @jjulyans · 1 day ago

  I am of the defoliate camp. Treating the plants like fruit trees. Mind you we grow outdoors in Ca. The outdoor environment gives me less concern for high RH, summers generally run 21 to 34 percent. Temperature range is mid 90 to 100° f. Nighttime 60 to 70° with some nights of pour RH and temp recovery. Diurnal winds are factors as well, generally up slop/canyon daytime, opposite at night. We seldom have days of dead air. The above is average not factoring in monsoonal systems (3 or 4 generally, sometimes none) <br>Fall is a crap shoot, genuinely thought we haven’t had significant weather until late October.

  2

• PA

  @paco83h · 2 days ago

  The first 6 to 7 years of growing flower on a budget I had nothing but a few small radiators &nbsp;to control my environment. No humidifiers, no dehus or even a mini split. If you have a big lungroom heat it up briefly for the last and first hour of of the photoperiod. Electric Oil radiators do the job very well, as they heat up fast while cooling down slow you can stretch it further by strategic placement between Air intake and Exhaust, ventilation and timer control. It avoids condensation consistently no matter what season.

  4

• DA

  @dantemecula4295 · 1 day ago (edited)

  Can you do a video on defoliation, best times to do it for light penetration, air flow and how much does defoliation affect the final product throughout the grow. Is it better to defoliate a few fan leaves a day, never touch them or? &nbsp;Also is it worth removing leaves if they block the light on the buds, or does that affect the plant energy? &nbsp;What do the research studies show?

  16

• AW

  @AwesomeCrabman · 2 days ago

  I have my sensors hanging right inside the canopy.<br>Also the lights dimm from 100% to 25% 20 minutes before they turn off.

  3

• NE

  @nEfaRiOuSdude01 · 15 hours ago

  DEFOLIATION?? 🧐 I think I didn&apos;t found a video about it yet on your channel. What and when too much? When useful? Differences between Autoflowers and Photoperiodics? <br>Might be interesting for a lot of growers I think. Keep it Up! Good Work! 💚

• SE

  @Semperf11 · 1 day ago

  wow thanks for this info.

  1

• RA

  @Ramahei987 · 20 hours ago (edited)

  As I could not perfectly control humidity in my grow space, I decided to : 1) increase air corculation by ramping up the fans, a bit higher than perfect to limit terpenes loss (lose terpenes, save 3 months of flower) and opted to not lollipop too much, accepting to have smaller buds but more spread out on the branches. Conditions for rot were met, but rot itself never showed up 🙌🏻

• JO

  @johndoeyedoe · 1 hour ago

  As long as you don&apos;t have disesed cuts, caterpillars, and other pests, you are good. If you have good genetics, you are good because plants can survive high humidity.

• GN

  @gnewts3155 · 21 hours ago

  Water evaporates slower when the rh is higher, so rh is definitely a factor.