HOT Upstairs? Don't Buy Radiant Barrier Yet

Comments · 64

• CR

  @CrawlSpaceNinja · 3 months ago · pinned

  If your upstairs is hot. Start here: grab the free Attic Air Seal and Insulate Guide in the description. It walks you through exactly what to look for and what to fix first. And if your situation is more complicated, I offer consultations where we can look at your specific attic together and build a game plan. Link in the description. — Michael

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• GR

  @gregs7918 · 2 months ago

  A lot of bad information on YouTube, but this video is 100% reality.  Thanks!

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• OZ

  @ozzie1684 · 3 months ago

  Great video, I just got done installing radiant barrier in about 70 percent of my attic the other 30 I just couldn't safely get too. I then went through fixed bad insulation spots and capped it with another 6 inches of cellulose. I changed and added soffit vents , added air baffles and 4 14 inch turbines an the attic is regularly 12-20 degrees over outside air temps and cools down so much faster in the evening. I'm using less electricity around 13 -15 percent and the house is much more comfortable. Another option depending on region , I slowed my blower motor to cool the air more efficiently. It causes longer run times but pulled out Oklahoma humidity in the house which makes it much more comfortable.

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• MI

  @michaelkiese7794 · 2 months ago (edited)

  TL/DR: &nbsp;You need a combination of Radiant Barrier AND Sealing/Insulation to achieve true relief. &nbsp;Radiant Barrier protects against radiant heat transfer. &nbsp;Sealing/Insulation protect against convective and conductive heat transfer.<br><br>It makes sense to install the radiant barrier at anytime. &nbsp;It&apos;s a simple No-Brainer DIY that anyone can do. &nbsp;<br><br>In fact, it makes MORE SENSE to install the radiant barrier BEFORE you air seal and add new insulation to your attic. &nbsp;<br><br>#1) you&apos;ll be working in a less hostile environment heat wise<br><br>#2) you don&apos;t want to install a bunch of new insulation and be walking all over it when you install the radiant barrier.

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• PS

  @ps-ic8pm · 3 weeks ago

  Excellent video! &nbsp;Your steps are exactly what I did in my attic. &nbsp;I airsealed then blew in 24&quot; of fiberglass on the floor, followed by stapling attic foil radiant barrier to the rafters. Cost me about $600 for the barrier, same for the fiberglass. The radiant barrier reduced the attic temp by 20F on hottest days.

• TL

  @TLBF · 3 months ago

  I installed radiant barrier double foil-bubble insulation in both houses in north AL and south-central TN. &nbsp;It made a huge difference in the attic temps. &nbsp;The house in north AL came with extra insulation as I had it built. &nbsp;The one in TN, I added about 12-14&quot; of cellulose to the attic. &nbsp;That made a big difference in air conditioning and heating comfort.

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• CA

  @caseycason7996 · 1 month ago

  Good

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• FI

  @findingfinesse1718 · 4 weeks ago

  Considering this product also acts as a moisture barrier as well as being resistant to mold etc. I plan to use this as a bottom layer, caulking it to the bottom. Then I am going to add insulation on top of it to the appropriate level. Totally agree with the point that it should only be considered a layer, not the whole solution.

• JU

  @JuliaLanza-v7i · 1 month ago

  nevermind lol you explained in next page. &nbsp;now i need to find what kind of spray foam you use

• DA

  @dadduorp · 2 months ago (edited)

  Very interesting—and highly informative! I&apos;m getting quotes for cooling off our 506 square foot garage (pitched roof of asphalt shingle with exposed wood rafters in the interior) and a company came out and said that they&apos;d install &quot;...one layer of R-30 fiberglass batt insulation, the secure the insulation with MPW-10 silver vapor barrier.&quot; But no <b>radiant</b> barrier.<br><br>When I looked up the materials, it said that the latter is used primarily for moisture control...but I live in Southern California where we get VERY little rain, zero humidity and lots of sunshine. What am I missing here?

• 19

  @1906house · 3 weeks ago

  Crazy question. I’ve seen the videos about how radiant barrier can cause mold. However, If I have a 1906 built roof and therefore I can see my soffit vents and go touche them. I see where the remediation company cut out the original baffling that was nailed onto the underside of the roof joists. Can I use radiant barrier as soffit vent baffling nailed onto the underside of the roof joists?

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• JU

  @JuliaLanza-v7i · 1 month ago

  hello looking to seal some new construction i’m unsure how f where to seal top plates of interior walls

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