I Compare RESIN vs. FILAMENT for 3D Printing Wargaming Minis

Comments · 712

• TH

  @Thaisrrr · 1 year ago

  1. Printing the parts separately allows for better orientation of the model and supports<br><br>2. Stringy filament overhangs can be smoothed in a myriad of ways (soldering iron with a flat head, wood filling, sanding, etc)<br><br>3. Using inner-outer-inner wall order helps with surface quality and decreases the evidence of layer lines<br><br>4. Using a heatgun to lightly warm the supports makes them easier to remove (and you can use the heatgun to “cure” surfaces damaged by supports)

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• IR

  @irongolem123 · 1 year ago

  I&apos;ve made two whole armies for One Page Rules using FDM printing. Most people I show it to can hardly believe it&apos;s really FDM. In my opinion, the slight loss of quality is absolutely worth it for the ease of use that FDM has compared to resin.

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• AR

  @ArkChanneltrue · 1 year ago (edited)

  Printing the entire model usually greatly reduces the quality, if it is possible to print in bits on the filament, the results can be better, even more so if they are well positioned to avoid creating supports. It requires more planning, but the result is visible, for example, shoulder pads, in this model the supports greatly affected the quality, if they were printed separately, with one of their parts directly on the printing bed, They probably won&apos;t need supports, so there would be no interfaces, and it would be cleaner.

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• RA

  @RandyKeelingJr · 1 year ago

  It would be interesting to see this video&apos;s topic revisited where instead of treating each mini the same, use the best painting technique for the given mini. What works best for resin might not work for filament. <br><br>And as others have said, printing the filament mini in pieces that are oriented in a way to minimize support or has support in non-visible areas helps a lot. <br><br>I like the detail we&apos;ve gotten in house with resin, but gave it up due to cost, mess, waste and fragility of the minis. But our filament printers are still going strong.

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• MO

  @mordecaitoth6703 · 1 year ago

  I regularly print minis in both resin and FDM. There are many great FDM designed minis that absolutely have a place on the tabletop next to any resin, plastic or metal minis.<br>Great video! Thanks for sharing!

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• NK

  @nkartakis · 1 year ago

  For the filament models use a Mr surfacer primer spray. It fills the gaps between the lines and makes the model smoother

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• JO

  @johnbastion747 · 1 year ago

  I recommend Fat Dragon games&apos; fdm printing tutorials for 28mm miniatures. Additionally i recommend their fdm printable miniatures. Another shout-out is Brite minis.

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• SH

  @shanesnover4048 · 1 year ago

  You&apos;d probably be interested in Painted4Combat&apos;s new video showing how to use presupported STLs intended for resin printing with FDM. Since they&apos;re already supported with hiding layer lines in mind, you may have good results that way.

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• PI

  @Pingvinen2 · 1 year ago

  Now you have to do a video, where you tinker with the FDM printer. Print it in parts, maybe gut the parts in half in the slicer, so they fit flat against the plate. Some people print at and 45 degree angle to minimize layer lines. Take it as a challenge to see how far you can take the fdm printer. Maybe try a tank. Boxes works better for fdm.

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• SK

  @skippygeoff · 1 year ago

  You should have done the FDM in bits, rolling the objects to get an angle with little support as needed and so its not on visible areas of the model. Much easier to get &nbsp;the &apos;tree&apos; off. Use small snips to get tree off not just pliers. I also have a scalpel knife to get an easy clear cut. I&apos;m doing 1/200 aircraft with .02 in PLA and the detail is great.

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• AR

  @artifixprime · 1 year ago

  100% Print the pieces separaly and choose the orientation for each piece: (a) to place supports where the separation surfaces won&apos;t be seen as easily and (b) to avoid the top-of-curved-surface effect you see on the head/shoulders around <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDIRXpX0BSw&amp;t=634">10:34</a> - rotate these 90(ish) degrees and the lines can almost disappear. Finally - prime it just a bit more thickly that you might normally do.

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• RU

  @RunKeithRun · 2 months ago

  To be honest, the FDG settings are OK but you need to dial in the settings more. The layer lines can be smoothed out largely by changing the ironing settings. There were also a lot of amendments I made to the supports beyond the FDG profile.

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