Ridge Beams vs Ridge Boards: What Every Builder & Engineer Must Know

Comments · 219

• JO

  @jockojohn3294 · 11 months ago · pinned

  Nice clear explanation and visuals. I'll be checking out your courses.

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• TH

  @the_cursor · 5 months ago

  I've been working in my attic recently and the ridge board and rafters look not nearly as robust as one would think. Then I remember that it's been that way since 1965 and has survived many hurricanes and even a few triple-digit windstorms. I think it's best that I just leave it alone. Thanks for the interesting video. I learned something.

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• DA

  @davidsike734 · 1 month ago

  Retired now, I was a framer from 1978-1984 and this brings back memories of different ways of framing. We used to install "collar ties" on every other set of rafters. We also typically put a support on each end of the of the ridge beam which had to be on a beam or load bearing wall for sufficient load transfer. We also used to install (2) 90 degree attached 2X6 boards across the top of the ceiling joists to keep the spacing uniform and a level plane. We called that a "strongback".

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• NO

  @normbograham3 · 6 months ago

  the house I'm in now, has a ridge board, and it's about 120 years old.   The Rafters are 2x4's.   with an additional support half way up, and anchored to a wall with nails, and a board, that looks like it's a spring board.   the flex board, is practically a spring board, letting the top of the house just move back and forth an inch.   The point is, everything is undersized.  The rafters are 2x4's, the ceiling joists are the same, with some of them on the flat side.   If you ever try to stop the sway, I think it starts by, sistering with some beafier joists.  Then put a box beam on the joists, and connect to the rafters, to stop the inch movement.   which extends to the joists in the wall, that are 2x4, yet, 20' long.   they've got to be sistered with 2x6's.  so, i'm stuck doing nothing, everything is interrelated, you cannot fix just one thing, you will break something else. Doing nothing is easier.

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• KS

  @kshepard52 · 10 months ago (edited)

  Speaking as a 30-year framer and contractor: a carpenter, structural engineer, or architect would call the one on the right a &quot;structural ridge&quot; (as opposed to the &quot;conventional ridge&quot; on the left), not a &quot;ridge beam&quot;. Structural ridges typically make use of beams as the ridge, but &quot;beam&quot; doesn&apos;t describe the main function. Rafters can be attached to both types of ridges with hangers. <br>If a strap is used across the top of a conventional ridge to resist uplift, it&apos;s installed across the top of- and fastened through- the roof sheathing. Shown like this it would interfere with fastening the roof sheathing to the rafters, which is a structural connection. If straps or hangers are not used, collar ties (2x4&apos;s, 2x6&apos;s, or 1x6&apos;s) can be installed in the upper third of the roof, connecting opposing rafter pairs at &nbsp;4&apos; intervals. Since most rafters are installed every 24&quot; along the ridge (on 24&quot; centers), every other rafter pair would get a collar tie.

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• TO

  @tom95521 · 5 months ago

  I remember my old carpenter teacher was irritated when engineers/building inspectors wanted ridge beams for single family homes. He thought collar ties and joists were good enough. Never had a failure in the hundreds of homes he built.

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• SP

  @Spaceman-b1l · 8 months ago (edited)

  I would always go with a conventionally framed roof over trusses. &nbsp; Too many times the trusses come broken or break later creating a massive problem. &nbsp; Plus, they eliminate any possibility of a functional attic. &nbsp;And, finally, any cost savings has to be compared to increaese in other trades, like HVAC. And compromises in functionality in other systems.<br><br>I prefer ridge beam, even if not to expose architectural features. &nbsp;They lend a more effective and efficient use of attic space, &nbsp;access overall, and installation and functionality of other systems (especially HVAC).<br>Plus, the long term durabilty of your roof..... termites will have to eat your entire house before that roof fails. <br><br>I, also, don&apos;t like OSB, preferring regular plywood and marine plywood (if moisture or water is an expected issue).<br><br>Basically, if you are going to build a home that you intend to keep or posiibly pass down.<br>Build it to last!! <br><br>Why build to a 10, 20, or 30 year standard? <br>When you are ready to retire and relax... the house will need major work.<br>Assuming 30 years....<br>BTW most track builds today are built to a 10 or 15 year standard.<br>🎉<br>Build to a 50 plus year standard. &nbsp;Build anticipating future upgrades and maintenance, with ease of access. &nbsp;<br><br>Yes, things have a cost. &nbsp;But, the difference in these, during initial building, &nbsp;are far lower than major overhauls and accompanying restorations.... far lower in the long run!!

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• WA

  @WatchWhatYouAskFor · 11 months ago

  Great video but I too was looking for the ridge beam post earlier in the presentation. &nbsp;I assumed it throughout so as not to panic about its absence. &nbsp;An early sideways view would have calmed my nerves.

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• SA

  @salamanderfanz · 3 months ago

  Here in Germany we use Ridge Purlins

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• DA

  @davidschwartz5127 · 11 months ago

  When I built my house in 1978, I wish resources like you had been available. Finding information was extremely difficult, and I relied on a book from the city library published in 1948. Although I had architectural drawings, they were often unclear, leading me to assume the expertise of a professional builder.

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• JA

  @jackfarrell4727 · 10 months ago

  Thank you for the video. Many, if not all houses over 60 - 70 years old use a 1x6 as a ridge board. A ridge board is merely a convenient way for carpenters stabilize roof framing and to visualize where the rafters go. I have seen structures with no ridge board at all. And at least twice in my life I have framed a roof with a &quot;real&quot; valley, now there is a lot of weight (stress) where a beam is required.

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• KL

  @klpittman1 · 3 months ago

  A ridge board offers no vertical support to the rafters other than an attachment point and to establish center line. The ceiling joists and diagonal bracing are to prevent wall spread. A ridge beam is supported verically by posts and in some cases there are additional horizontal support beams also supported by posts. The rafters sit on the beams and you could have two or more birdsmouth cuts in rafters to attach to the beams. As In post and beam construction, the rafter load is vertical. Wall pushout is minimal to non-existant. The ridge beam and headers support rafters, lead load and live load vertically.

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