The Japanese Oil Change Trick That Keeps Engines Running Past 600,000 Miles
100K views · Jun 4, 2026 · Entertainment
Comments · 114
@Medical-g5p · 3 months ago
In Japan, car maintenance, including engine oil changes, is a process characterized by extreme precision, efficiency and a strong focus on preventive maintenance. Here's how this process typically goes in Japan: <br> 1. The culture of "Shaken" and preventive maintenance <br>In Japan there is a strict periodic inspection system called Shaken. Because the requirements for this inspection are very high, Japanese car owners are used to keeping their vehicles in top condition. Oil changes are therefore often done more often than in many Western countries; many Japanese maintain an interval of every 5,000 kilometers or every six months. <br> 2. The method: How they do it <br>The methodology in Japanese garages (from official dealers to specialized 'Auto-Bacs' stores) is highly standardized: <br> <br>The "Gravity Drain" method: The most commonly used method is draining via the sump plug at the bottom of the engine. This is considered the most effective way to remove all old oil and any sediment from the crankcase. <br>Use of quality oil: Japanese mechanics attach great importance to the manufacturer's specifications. They almost exclusively use high-quality, low-viscosity synthetic oils (such as 0W-20 or 5W-30), which are specifically designed for modern, efficient Japanese engines. <br>Replacement of the gasket: The copper or aluminum ring (the sump plug gasket) is replaced as standard in Japan with every oil change. This is a small action, but it is a permanent part of their protocol to prevent leaks. <br>Oil and air filter: It is standard in Japan to also replace the oil filter with every oil change. The air filter is often also checked and replaced immediately if necessary, because it is believed in Japan that a clean engine "breathes" and therefore drives more economically. <br> <br> 3. Where do they have it done? <br>There are three main types of oil changes in Japan: <br> <br>1. The Dealer (ディーラー - Diira): The most reliable, but also most expensive option. Here we work according to strict factory protocols and the maintenance history is kept digitally. <br>2. Auto-Bacs of Yellow Hat: These are huge "automotive superstores". They have a workshop where you can go without an appointment (or with a short waiting time). They are very efficient, work with fixed prices and have a very transparent working method where the customer can often observe. <br>3. Gas stations: Many major gas stations in Japan have a small workshop where technicians change oil while you wait. This is very popular because of its convenience. <br> <br> 4. The "Japanese Approach" (Features) <br>What makes the Japanese method unique is the attention to detail: <br>Cleaning: After the oil change, the engine compartment is often briefly cleaned or wiped down. <br>Checklist: The mechanic always performs a visual inspection of other fluids (brake fluid, coolant) and tire pressure. <br>Documentation: The customer always receives a sticker in the corner of the windshield or a card in the glove compartment with the exact mileage and the date of the next scheduled change. <br> <br>In summary: The Japanese method is based on strict adherence to intervals, the use of high-quality materials and a thorough inspection of the entire vehicle during the oil change. It is a process aimed at maximizing engine life, which is essential in a country where cars are often used intensively in heavy urban traffic.
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@bibashector3099 · 1 day ago
Bonjour de la Martinique,<br>Très heureux de vous rencontrer et de vous écouter. Donc très instructif votre VDO.<br>MERCI BCP À TRÈS BIENTÔT.:hand-purple-blue-peace::hand-pink-waving:
@CoreCarvn · 3 months ago
i actually started using this exact oil change method a few years ago and my high mileage engine still runs perfectly quiet
16
@DonaldSmith-i4n · 1 month ago
I don't run any kind of cleaner between changes. My 1976 Dodge 318 got changed when the oil began to look a bit dirty. With highway miles, that could be as much as 3500. With local start and stop with loads, more like 2300 or 2500. The inside of my engine had zero junk, sludge, etc. Just shiny, clean wet metal. I sold it when I left the States in 2014 with 325,000 miles. It ran like it was a year old. You may not be old enough for this news, but before multi-viscosity oils, when we lived in Maine, we used lighter oil in winter, and heavier oil in summer....
4
@mprents · 1 month ago
You hit the nail on the head! Very good
2
@Vanfran2 · 1 month ago
300,000 on my Chevy Cheyenne 350, I've been running 20w50 for 15 years, all 4 seasons. As of today, it's been running great
1
@Napro_Garage · 3 months ago
Fuel prices are just getting out of hand at this time.
7
@alr6844 · 1 month ago
I have never drained cold oil. I have always run the car for 10 minutes before dropping the oil. The moly additive makes sense and when I grew up in a cold part of the country, you always warmed up the engine in the morning before placing a load on the engine.. The last two make sense.
2
@JorgeGarcia-qg3kp · 3 weeks ago
Thank you for your great professional presentations.
@Ghostburn70 · 2 months ago
I switched to 5w 30 for the summer in my 13 outback wich calls for 0w 20 recently.<br>1k miles in ive noticed quieter cold starts and quicker to idle rpm. <br>It seems to be consuming less oil as well if not any. <br>No low oil level light coming on during highway speeds or inclines. It also sounds happier at idle when warm during a hot day. <br>May have possibly lost some mpgs but il trade that instead of hearing a brief dry run rattle and screaming rpm when cold start. <br>Definitely will switch back when the weather gets to freezing. <br>Apparently the Japanese manual calls for 5w 30 on the same engine , however due to epa mpg standards in the us its 0w20 recommend. <br>Also put the taller oil filter in.<br>142k miles , time will tell. 🎉
7
@billyclark7762 · 1 month ago
I've been doing this for 30 + years in all of my cars and trucks
1
@stephenferrera-grand7827 · 1 month ago (edited)
How you accelerate your car has a big effect on your oil change intervals. If you are racing your car you most likely want to visually check your oil frequently, while you are at it check your tire air pressure too. There many small things you can do yourself to keep your vehicles optimized. Notice the color of your oil when it's new. When it turns darker it is time to change the oil and filter. If you do it yourself you may spend less than $40 per 5 to 10 quart oil and filter change. Buy your oil at a discount from Walmart, Costco, etc. Purchase top rated oil and filters. <br>I use Cerma oil and OEM Ford filters for my 2003 Ranger 4.0 straight 6 SOHC (203,500 miles) and 2018 Mustang GT. Cerma is not available at Costco or Walmart. <br>What this video suggests will cost you more to have done by a mechanic. Maybe you have time to do this yourself. However, most Americans aren't looking to drive a car 600,000 miles. I've never used this precise method, sure warm the engine before changing the oil. You might find it will take a little more to get the filter free and now you are dealing with hot parts and oil, but you do remove more contaminants. <br>Over all your car is not a taxi and you aren't using a fleet mechanic. Watch a few more YouTube videos for a deeper understanding.
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