I Tried 3D Printing The BIGGEST Model In 30 Days!

Comments · 198

• BA

  @battlebrothersam · 2 months ago · pinned

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• FO

  @forrestbarton6180 · 1 month ago

  Also, when you&apos;re slicing, you can choose to add registration points or connectors. So they&apos;ll snap together when you glue them, making sure everything&apos;s perfectly aligned

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• BI

  @BigDavesReviews · 1 month ago

  Seeing the gigantic tower on every print makes me LOL a little bit at the end of each one of your prints.

• NI

  @Nine_Eighty · 1 month ago

  The UK version of Bondo is 3M 05098 Acrylic Red Glazing Putty Tube. It looks expensive but it’s in a larger tube than Bondo is.

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• US

  @us3rnam3number · 1 month ago

  for the next one of these, add alignment dowels and sand the surfaces with rough sandpaper before glue

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• CH

  @cheshirecatproductions · 2 months ago

  I love videos like this that show the entire process, ups and downs. And the best part was you were asking the questions you needed help with! <br>From someone does props and armor prints, I could go on and on with answering your questions. <br>But I&apos;ll stick to three. <br>1. Drop your infill to 5 or 7 percent. (Walls 3 if you want strength) Top surfaces to 6 or 7. Bottom surface 3 or 4.<br>2. Some of those chunky pieces could&apos;ve been hollowed out with meshmixer (similar to resin prints). Massive cut down on weight, filament, and print time. <br>3. The gaps you were seeing between pieces is warping. Check out your cooling on first several layers. Add brim or skirt. <br>Looking forward to your adventure with sanding. Upol is a good Bondo substitute.

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• NO

  @Nonmortuus · 1 month ago

  On adding the supports, if it&apos;s an edge like that (<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7DM6Lyj2Fk&amp;t=660">11:00</a>) then tick the on overhangs only box and use the fill button, it will only apply the support to that area and not onto faces like you have painted there.

• PA

  @paulhowarth865 · 2 months ago

  I use my food dehydrator to dry filament, and new or old, it gets put in overnight on 50 degrees before printing as I&apos;ve had so many failures in the past due to brittle filament

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• BE

  @Bens3DLab · 2 weeks ago

  We are all had this little mistakes at the beginning of Our 3d print journey 😂 but as you said, Mistakes are there to learn from it. You did a great job. The result looks amazing. Keep going😊

• DR

  @DrVesuvius70 · 2 months ago

  I think a lot of folks forget that 3D printing is really a rapid prototyping technology. &nbsp;You have to be prepared for a little more clean-up and post-processing work to get the best results. &nbsp;Slight variations in prints that give you some gaps between parts is inevitable.<br>That said, I&apos;ve seen other channels make the $2000 kit and other premium resin kits from the same, overpriced company. They all had badly warped parts and terrible fits, much much worse than seen here.<br>You get what you pay for, I guess.

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• JE

  @jeremymcadam7400 · 2 months ago

  Never in my life have i seen a more patient man

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• NI

  @nitzerebbhead · 2 months ago

  If you have crappy 3D printer resin you don&apos;t want to use for projects, you can paint a thin layer on the surface of a 3D print and use a hand held or a UV lamp to cure it. &nbsp;Then sand that surface smooth. &nbsp;Or, red glazing putty can be thinned with acetone and brushed on to fill layer lines followed by sanding.

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