15 HIDDEN things that might go WRONG with your Defender TD5

Comments · 100

• JA

  @JackJane-z6v · 1 year ago

  Guys, a really important one that I think is not particularly well known. The centrifugal oil filter housing lid is held on by 2 relatively short bolts that can strip the threads on the actual oil filter housing. <br><br>Serviceable part so it’s coming on and off throughout vehicles lifetime and wearing. If these threads strip it’s just as bad as driving along with your sump plug hanging off. <br><br>Happened to me and luckily caused no damage to the engine, I only noticed when the continuous flow of oil onto the turbo started a small fire. Luckily an easy fix by simply installing some longer bolts with nuts and washers on them, instead of the bolts just sitting in the thread.

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• PH

  @phantomvarro5986 · 2 months ago

  <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ToFi17fRTH4&amp;t=270">4:30</a> I have this exact issue, thank you for your help!!

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• JJ

  @JJamessssss · 7 months ago

  Another common one is failing injector seals causing diesel to leak into the sump.

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• NE

  @nemanjagradinac5419 · 2 days ago

  Awesome information. Quite concerning engineering from the manufacturer. Sounds like an engine swap would make it a much more reliable vehicle. Shame though, good looking vehicle wish the performance and reliability would match its looks

• PA

  @paulhinkley5545 · 11 months ago

  Great info, but there is a fix for the injector harness oil contamination of the ECU. Get a new harness and before fitting it, flood in inside base of the harness main loom plug with superglue. Do this a couple of times letting it dry before applying the next lot. Avoid the connector pins carefully, just the base where the pins go through the plastic. Let it dry in a position it won&apos;t run out, and best overnight. Then take the cap of the same plug and fill that with silicone sealant and put the cap back on, cleaning up the mess that been squeezed out. Do this and clean up the ECU connector, you may have to do that a few times after because of the residue oil in the harness, and you will not ever have this issue again.

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• MU

  @mudden · 6 months ago (edited)

  Thanks for the video, lot&apos;s of great tips and tricks! <br>Regarding the Turbo Waste gate. My valve kept sticking over and over again, the WD-40 just burnt off I guess so I removed the heat cover and then removed the rod from the actual valve, and loosened the valve with a pair of pliers. I then greased up the valve with copper paste and a heat gun, and that has worked for some months now 🤞

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• MI

  @MikeThePolisher · 1 year ago

  Absolutely outstanding, thanks for doing this 👍👍👍

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• DA

  @danstokes · 8 months ago

  Excellent stuff Andy Thanks 👍

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• MB

  @mbtech9791 · 1 year ago

  Great stuff, new subscriber here.😀<br>I&apos;m 26yrs into owning a Landy, but always new things to consider and contrast.

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• RA

  @radsy5821 · 1 year ago (edited)

  Good video Andy. Note on the MAF sensor, it&apos;s only used for EGR on the 10p. If you&apos;re not worried about EGR or you have EGR deleted on a 10p, you can ignore a dead MAF sensor.<br><br>My 10p did 290,000km on plastic dowels!

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• EL

  @elidalgliesh644 · 5 months ago

  Great information for a future defender owner, Thanks mate. 👍🏼

• TH

  @TheShropshireLandyGuy · 11 months ago

  Hi Andy , thanks so much for the detailed overview. I am collecting a new to me td5 110’at the weekend - can’t wait ! And you guide will be massively helpful. Subscribed.

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