RV Myths You're Still Falling For (Big Mistake)

Comments · 18

• TH

  @TheRecreationalVehicleYT · 1 month ago (edited) · pinned

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• MR

  @Mrblueridgeman · 4 days ago

  <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGfiYN-uDBE&amp;t=1143">19:03</a> get a tire pressure monitoring system. Cheap insurance. A slow leak from a screw or nail you picked up won’t be noticed until there’s a catastrophic failure. Slow leak &nbsp;leads under inflated tire which will overheat and fail badly on the highway. &nbsp;With TPMS it will tell you if a tire is slowly deflating. Then you can safely stop and change it before it flies apart.

• DO

  @Don-ul6rx · 1 month ago

  Okay, for the most part you got it right, but here are a few that you got wrong. One, blowing out your air lines. You hot water tank gets drained via the drain plug and then put it in the by-pass mode. Now open your low point drain hot and cold and all of your faucets inside and out. hook up an air line with the compressor regulator set to 40 psi. and let it run for half an hour. add RV antifreeze to the sink drains. Disconnect the air line and you&apos;re done. Note leave all faucets showers open. Two, if you disconnect and remove all of your batteries for winter there will be no draw on your batteries, but you should hook up a trickle charger to them to keep them charged.

• BO

  @bobwaldron420 · 1 month ago

  I always keep my valves closed until I flush. I also test the hose connection &nbsp;y letting just a little grey run out first. Then I close it &amp; if there are no leaks I continue to dump my black tank.

  3

• JO

  @johnlynch5221 · 12 days ago

  RV antifreeze is cheap. Repairing damaged pluming is not. And get a good flow out of your faucets. Both hot and cold. I pore about two red solo cups worth down each drain. Also, don&apos;t forget the outside shower too.

• RO

  @Rollypolly1001 · 1 month ago

  Man this is a lot to keep up with 😰

  1

• TA

  @Tactical_chocolate · 1 month ago

  Ive always heard keep black closed.

• KE

  @kenzokenzo8940 · 1 month ago

  I &nbsp;didn&apos;t understand much, especially about the electrics

• TO

  @TomSpurlock · 1 month ago

  You&apos;re WRONG!!! &nbsp; For Schwintek, never spray dry lube on the S-gear area of the rail. &nbsp;Just clean the top and bottom grooves of each rail with CRC dry lube spray. &nbsp;That&apos;s all.

• RR

  @rrizz2050 · 1 month ago

  I thought I might learn something here about these &quot;myths&quot; Majority of these are common sense, and known by 99.9% of people using RVs. This video should be labeled &quot;for beginners&quot;

  3

• BU

  @BushkaValeman · 1 month ago

  @<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGfiYN-uDBE&amp;t=684">11:24</a>. &nbsp; regarding slide outs. &nbsp;&quot;wipe the seals with rubber conditioner&quot;. &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; well that&apos;s a myth. &nbsp; They are not made of rubber and rubber conditioner is not good for them. &nbsp; Many RV slide-out wiper and bulb seals are actually made of engineered plastic polymers—such as thermoplastic elastomers (TPE) or thermoplastic vulcanizates (TPV)—rather than traditional EPDM rubber. While they look and feel like rubber, manufacturers have used these plastic compounds since the 1990s because they extrude easily and have UV inhibitors baked directly into the material.Conditioners: Heavy oil-based or petroleum-based aftermarket rubber conditioners are generally unnecessary and can sometimes react poorly with plastic polymers or attract sticky dirt. If you use a protectant, manufacturers lean toward light, water-based options.

  2

• DA

  @DaveM.Simon10 · 1 month ago (edited)

  If your battery is disconnected how can the CO detector and radio still draw current? &nbsp;Am I missing something at <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGfiYN-uDBE&amp;t=845">14:05</a>.

  2