Never Do This When Reshafting Golf Clubs

Comments · 167

• WI

  @williamsanders3182 · 3 years ago

  I've messed around with club building/repair for many years. Your videos are, by far, the most informative and user friendly I've ever seen. I appreciate you putting this information out there.

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• GI

  @gilgarza2903 · 3 years ago

  YES! Take your time... Don't rush it. Measure twice cut once. ESPECIALLY in todays market finding custom shafts are EXPENSIVE. And LABEL EVERYTHING!!! The clubheads on the face and back, the shafts, both top and bottom. Help me a lot on my first build.

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• BR

  @bryanfriedman4831 · 2 weeks ago

  Great video for us first timers.

• ST

  @stevie-jayjohnson2101 · 3 years ago

  AJ you are awesome dude. 👌 just starting my journey into club repairs and builds. I love these videos

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• BI

  @BillBogleJr-g5b · 1 year ago

  Ping uses the ping collared ferrules to center the shaft. They shaft the clubs vertically so there is no shaft creep. They have hosel heaters that hold the club. Lastly they use NS810 from 3M that fills the gaps (unlike epoxy that needs a thin bond). Not .my favorite but that is how it is done, and PXG copied it when they took all of the engineers they could from Ping. I do like PXG small base cups for .355 taper tips. The idea for both was that you could use .370 parallel or .355 taper tips shafts. On old Pings you used to have to hammer the shafts into the tapered hosels.

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• HO

  @honuputters1891 · 2 years ago

  I completely agree that collared ferrules are worthless for adapting the shaft diameter to the hosel bore - but in my experience they do creep less than uncollared ones.  The collar provides much more surface area to bond the ferrule to the hosel compared to the annulus at the end of an uncollared ferrule.  As the shaft wiggles (as shown in your ferrule creep repair video), a collared ferrule has an extra force on it to resist the push-away, namely the clamping force that squeezes the collar between the hosel and one side of the shaft.  It's not perfect or foolproof, but it helps.  The epoxy bond between ferrule, shaft, and top of hosel is very poor because epoxy barely sticks to either the thermoplastic ferrule material or to the chrome on the un-abraded part of the shaft.

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• KE

  @kennyg63 · 3 years ago

  I agree with everything stated, especially not using fast drying epoxy. Slow drying epoxy is stronger which is another huge advantage.

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• BR

  @bryanlina4724 · 3 years ago

  Highly recommend the 24hr epoxy for any more than 1 club if it's your first time. I had 2 wedges and the epoxy was hardening by the time I got to the 2nd one while i was making sure the shaft was in place and lined up how I wanted. Had to rush to mix more and was unnecessary stress on a relatively easy job. Great info about the ferrule too

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• BL

  @BlackSheep883-d7n · 1 year ago

  I never use beads...never had a problem ...

  3

• FR

  @fredsites5723 · 2 years ago

  i just did my first set of clubs and after ~10 rounds ended up having 2 failures on the range... I made the mistakes in this video🤡😳, thanks for your help I wish I found your channel sooner. I've got lots to learn but this channel is super helpful!

  2

• JA

  @jasonmiller4080 · 3 years ago

  I was wondering about the collared ferrules. Never made sense that you couldn’t use a regular ferrule in a collared/stepped iron hosel. Great video to answer that. Thank you

  1

• JE

  @jeffwagner1152 · 3 years ago

  Great stuff! I always enjoy your videos. Keep them coming.

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